“I feel that Hedi really understands the spirit of Saint Laurent, and that’s what makes me happy.” – Betty Catroux
Nobody does cool cats and mod like Hedi Slimane. Nobody does changes to a fashion house so upfront like him did. From the ‘updated’ name for the house to swinging it out of its comfort zone and back to the real Saint Laurent era, no wonder you hear two different voices about him in the fashion world.
But naturally I choose to stay at the supporting side for his womenswear.
Hedi Slimane must have such strong belief to pay tribute to the real Yves Saint Laurent because he has been consistently showcasing girls in the same coolness season after season. Tribute to the master by staying in his era with shows. Keeping the spirit of great 60s and 70s alive.
Or either Hedi Slimane has the soul of the 60s. His girls truly reflecting the spirit of that sex, drugs and glamorous era. Or is it ‘swag’ as the new generation call it now?
Hedi Slimane styled glitters as disco light, not as princessy. He styled leather and black tights as armour, not as accessories. He styled girls like they are as skinny as their mom would have been in the 60s. The kohl-rimmed eyes, the loose cut fringe and the minis.
Yes, of course, those minis. They are prefect to show off the long legs, if you happened to have a pair.
One thing that is so consistent in Hedi Slimane’s work through the season is the mini length of his skirts or dresses. But you know how the girls would be in those times – not that I have lived through it, but isn’t it constantly being put into our face that it is the era of liberty? So a mini length can be a symbol, or a real piece of work because that is what you need to hang from party to party, or even, from bed to bed.
Not that Hedi Slimane makes it difficult to enter the door of Saint Laurent. He has an understanding of what is for glamour and what is for real. The coats, the capes, and even the mini dresses are as real as the black tights to flatter your daily routine.
And if you still have doubt, you can always deck on the infamous tuxedo set from Saint Laurent. Nothing brings me alive like a real good suit.
If all else failed, perhaps you do not belong to the House of Saint Laurent. It’s a groupie kinda thing. Just so you know.
The finale of a groupie walk was beautiful, and I think it sent out a clear image of the kind of girls Saint Laurent house is interested in. I don’t know if I would appreciate the attitude of the 60s groupie in my real life, but I sure like the clothes.
We are not done just yet.
Not forgetting what makes a look complete and cash-cow as we know it, Hedi Slimane is brilliant at this season’s accessories. Glitters and high boots are at its best. Thank God for the low heels Mary Jane too!
Hedi Slimane has again proven he is the best pick for the house, even Yves Saint Lauren’s long-time muse Betty Catroux agrees with it.
“Meeting Hedi Slimane in 1996, I instantly knew he was the only heir. … From then, I have only worn Hedi’s clothes. It is uncanny how he reminds me of Yves. … The consolation is that I feel that Hedi really understands the spirit of Saint Laurent, and that’s what makes me happy.”
(For the full article, read it on Porter Magazine Spring2014 issue)